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The Forest Through the Trees, continued
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Like stepping back in time, Will and I wondered through the maze of jungle. Wild looking bugs, including a yellow caterpillar with black tendrils, were spotted scooting up their resident stalks. Lizards, which took no notice of us, rustled in the leaves in search of food. Above, gray gibbons swung from the vines covering the largest of trees. I too tried to swing, but determined I would not even have made the first cut of "Jane" tryouts.
| Click to Enlarge. | Taman Negara has the largest tree canopy walk in the world. Will and I cautiously climbed into the domain of the monkeys and birds. Ten meters (30 feet) above the forest floor, small wooden bridges spanned the tree trunks. I gripped onto the ropes hoping my vertigo would subside long enough to enjoy our stroll through the treetops. Feeling completely in his element, Will reckoned he could have remained up there for days.
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On one evening we embarked on a night safari. Deep in the dark jungle, our knowledgeable park guide pointed out a remarkable number of insects and plants. A Blinking Spider flashed its luminous eyes. When we turned off our flashlights, glow-in-the dark worms crawled in the blackness by fluorescent mushrooms. Aptly named stick bugs froze in the glare of our light. A giant green and black venomous spider poised ready to strike. Will heard a rustle and pointed his flashlight. A ghostly gray porcupines' yellow eyes glowed at us; then it bristled its quills and scurried away. From the top of a lookout we heard a low growl, perhaps a large cat, but it slinked away before we caught sight of it.
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Taman Nagara is a haven for endangered rhinos, elephants, tigers, leopards, birds, and orangutans. Sightings however, are rare. It is more than enough to trek through, seeing, listening, smelling and feeling the jungle encompass you.
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A massive jolt to modernity occurred when we arrived in Singapore. Huge skyscrapers, speeding cars and orderly landscapes replaced our jungle vistas. We considered going to the zoo where you can have breakfast with the Orangutans, but we knew it would only depress us. Orangutans, whose name in Bahasa translates to 'Man of the Forest,' have been relegated to a few threatened preserves and of course zoos. How could we see these creatures in an unnatural setting after we had seen where they really belonged.
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Strange thing human nature. Throughout the trip we, and every other traveler we have met, have sought natural untarnished settings. Lamentably, our very presence disturbs what we seek to experience. It seems that humans are able to easily preserve their own historical architectural accomplishments: Forbidden City, Angkor Wat and the like, but when it comes to nature we fall short.
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It is heartening though to see a number of
people and organizations begin to preserve our natural world.
But after eight months in Asia, the overriding sentiment is
sorrow. The pull on resources seems too great. In developing
countries especially, where people are struggling to make
ends meet, how can you expect them to worry about Orangutans
when they can not feed their families? In the developed world,
are we too attached to our cars, wood floors, plastic, paper,
refrigerators and electricity to see what damage our purchases
inflict?
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At the beginning of our adventure, I was afraid that globalization would have completely encompassed the diverse cultures of Asia before we had seen them first hand. The real dilemma is the loss of our natural world. I do not fear that my children, grandchildren and even parents will not see the tribes of northern Vietnam. I fear they will not know that tigers and whale sharks exist in the wild.
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After orderly Singapore, we headed to Jakarta,
Indonesia. A friend took us to the docks to see the old sailboats
manned by Bugis, the infamous ethnic group of South East Asian
seafarers. While their boats were stunning, their cargo was
devastating. Thousands of huge long blocks of deep burgundy
hardwoods were being unloaded. My friend, fluent in the local
language, asked what type of tree the wood was from. Not recognizing
the local name, she smiled sadly and replied in Bahasa Indonesian,
"It use to be the home of an Orangutan."
MKS
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